Prof. Mohsina Mukadam,
Ramnarain Ruia College

Food plays an important role in understanding human culture and therefore increasing number of social scientists are becoming interested in the history of food and cuisine. This has led to the emergence of a new field of inquiry i.e. culinary history. Culinary history studies the origin and development of ingredients, methods, techniques and equipments of cooking, serving of meals and meaning of these activities to the societies that produce them. Culinary historians analyse how the character of time, place and people is expressed through food. In short the culinary historian studies food in historical dimension to understand society and culture.

Study of food becomes very interesting as it produces infinite variables, because the food habits within same culture are not necessarily homogeneous. The variables in diet results from different factors like religion, class, caste, gender and region. The focus of this presentation is on regional variables with special reference to Maharashtra.

People of different regions have different eating habits. The use of ingredients, the method of cooking, the belief about the food properties are determined by different factors. The food habit of a region is firstly determined by the local ecological system i.e. natural resources that are available for its use. It is the assemblage of food grains, plants, animals and other product which gives local character to the regional food. Secondly, physical requirement of inhabitants of the particular region which in turn is influenced by the environment, is also determining factor in shaping food habit of the people. Third important factor which influences regional diet is its exposure to outside forces. This exposure is as much due to geography as due to history. In course of history new ingredients, dishes and ideas are introduced in diet which are adapted to suit local taste and preferences but without serious break with the past.

Considering above mentioned factors an attempt is being made to understand the food pattern of Maharashtra from contemporary literary sources. Maharashtra is rugged territory, therefore, it is generally believed that inhabitants of this region have a simple lifestyle which reflects in their food habits as well. But literary sources show us refined food style. Sophistication in cuisine reached its pinnacles during the Peshwa period. Geographically Maharashtra is a link between north and south. The influence from south especially from Karnataka is clearly seen whereas northern influence became prominent in 18th century when Peshwas followed the policy of northward expansion. Another important feature of Maharashtrian cuisine is continuity and change. Many of the food items have remained unchanged and popular since ancient period. At the same time, in the course of history, new dishes were added to the diet. Local preference in taste can also be seen from contemporary documents. Thus, with the help of documentary sources like poems, letters, religious texts, official documents and of course cookery books evolution of traditional Maharashtrian food culture can be easily traced.